residentialpaing
A paintbrush is a versatile tool for applying primers, undercoats, varnishes and topcoats to a variety of surfaces.
Use one for applying gloss to wood and metalwork, and for where colours or surfaces meet – around windows and doors, for example.
HOLDING A BRUSH
Hold the handle between the thumb and first finger, resting the fingertips at the top of the handle.
Dip the brush in the paint so it reaches halfway up the bristles then wipe it on the side of the can to remove the excess. Use short, even strokes to apply the paint using both sides of the bristles.
USING A BRUSH
1.Stir the paint – unless it is non-drip. Make sure any liquid on the surface is thoroughly mixed into the paint by lifting the stick as you stir.
2.Choose a brush which is the right size. As a rough guide, paint window frames with a 25 mm brush, door panels with a 75 mm brush, and walls and other large surfaces with a 100 mm brush. Grip large brushes around the handle and hold smaller brushes more like a pencil.
3.Flick the bristles against your hand to remove dust, old paint and loose bristles.
4.Dip the brush into a paint pot, to about one half of the bristle depth
5.Press the brush against the pot wall to remove surplus paint. Do not scrape the brush over the rim of the pot because too much paint will come off.
6.After you have applied the paint, wipe the brush on the edge of the pot to remove paint that works up the handle.
By this series of articles, Beverly Painting will take you through all DIY painting steps from preparation to paint a room including choosing the right paint. In this article we concentrate on paint preparation.
So, you have purchased your paint and you want to get stuck in to the residential painting or commercial painting job, but there are a few things you need to do first to ensure a successful painting job.
If the job you are working on requires two or three 4 litre cans of paint, mix, or ‘box’, the paint from all the cans together to get a consistent colour. To do this, find a clean container and open all of the paint cans (Make sure you are using right device to remove the lids). Pour half of the paint from the first can into the extra container. Then pour some paint from the second and third cans into the first can. Move to the extra container and pour in some more paint from the second and third cans. Then pour the contents of all four containers back and forth several times. When the paint is mixed, return it to the original containers and seal the lids tightly. A much quicker alternative is to mix all the paint together in a single 20 litre container, if you can find a suitable one.
Any electric drill mixing attachment is handy for water-based and oil-based paints. But don’t use the attachment to stir lacquer, epoxy paint, shellac, or any finish that includes ‘Do not shake can’ on its label. You won’t need to do battle with the bubbles that power-mixing stirs up. Instead, stir these paints and finishes by hand; they will stay fairly free of bubbles.
Here is another home-made way to minimise the mess created when stirring a full can of paint. Increase the height of the can by taping some folded sheets of newspaper around it. Any spills will fall onto the paper and not onto your workbench or floor.
Stirring full cans of paint with a drill-driven mixer can splatter paint everywhere. One way to contain the mess is with a large coffee tin lid (one that comes with the 500 g or 1 kg tins). Drill a hole in the centre of the lid and slip it onto the mixer shaft before inserting the mixer into the drill. Hold the lid tightly over the paint can while you are mixing.
Cut off the top of a clean 1 litre cardboard milk carton and use it as a container for mixing (or just holding) small amounts of paint or stain. The paint won’t stick to the wax coated interior, and the corner of the carton makes a good pouring spout.
Manual stirring
manual paint stirrer is more effective if it has several holes along its length. With each stroke the paint flows back and forth through the holes, allowing for faster, more thorough blending. You can buy a perforated metal stirrer or make your own wooden one. To make your own, find a long flat piece of scrap timber and use a drill to make a series of small holes. Rinse your stirrer thoroughly after use to prevent the holes from getting clogged with dried paint.
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Residential painting sydney
Painting is one the most efficient ways to refresh the house and increase the value without spending a lot of cash. Choosing the right colour for your residential painting project is crucial for success.
GET ADVENTUROUS
When faced with swatches showing 15 shades of cerulean, it’s easy to take the safe option of beige or cream. But getting adventurous with colour is an easy way to liven up and theme a room; create a feature wall or a background to stand-out artwork. It can enhance the timber tones of bookshelves and cabinetry and is an ideal approach for first homeowners wanting to unify mismatched furniture.
Wheel of colour
While a favourite colour or object often determines the main paint colour for a room, you may wish to consult a colour wheel for a secondary or contrasting colour. The colours that are opposite each other are called complementary colours. These hues will enhance each other in a colour scheme. The hues on each side of a given colour are called related colour and form the basis for a coordinated look.
SIMPLE RULES FOR PAINTING A ROOM
In residential painting job always pick three colours with one for the trim, one for the walls and one for the ceiling. Contrast or keep the same colour in different shades but note that a stark while ceiling against rich walls makes them appear shorter and the room look unfinished.
Keep the trim the same in open rooms for continuity. Choose a colour three shades lighter than the wall.
In residential painting jobs if the ceiling is less than 2,700 mm high, paint it two shades lighter than the walls. If the ceiling is more than 3,000 mm, have it two shades darker.
If you want a long, narrow room to look wider, paint one or both of the short walls a bright or dark colour and the other walls a pale colour. If the room is square and lacks a focal paint such as fireplace or large window, paint one wall a rich accent colour such as maroon.
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Look for products with the Good Environmental Choice tick. It shows that they’ve been independently certified as meeting standards on issues such as air polluting volatile organic compound (VOC) levels, heavy metal content, potentially carcinogenic or ozone depleting substances and recyclable packaging. Be aware that certified paints may no longer meet standards after a tint is added. Consider limewash, milk or plant-based paints that tend to emit fewer fumes but take longer to dry.
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A white space should be calming, but be wary of allowing it to become too sterile. Work with different shades of white to build up a layered effect.
Opt for stark contrasts, and try a rich cream on the walls and a clean white on the trim. Or be more subtle with a stony shade below the picture rail and a paler chalk above.
TIP Pick all the whites from either warm or cool families. Mixing them will produce an uncomfortable and amateurish result.
The choice of soft neutrals in this room helps make the white marble of the fireplace stand out.
Different white elements in this room are punctuated with splashes of crimson.
Unifying different styles
There are hundreds of shades of white. But there is one that springs to mind whenever anyone speaks of white paint. Some call it art gallery white. Some call it stark white or brilliant white. Use it to unify a building with a mishmash of architectural styles. It will also create an all-purpose, neutral background to make a collection of furnishings and decorative bits and pieces sit in an interior of any architectural period. Or draw attention to whatever is on the walls, be it framed artworks or a family photo gallery.
Ageing gracefully
The ultra-fresh feel of stark white is the antithesis of what some homeowners desire. They prefer to work with whites that look aged and sit comfortably alongside original period features or lovingly selected vintage furnishings. In such cases, look for dirty whites smudged with a bit of grey or brown. This creates an impression of once-clean whites having developed a gentle patina with the passing of the years to complement furnishings.
CONTRASTING TRIMS
No matter what colour scheme you choose, whether it’s a selection of whites or a combination of pastels or even stronger colours, consider using a crisp, clean white on all the trims. It strengthens the personality of the wall colour.
Use a semi-gloss or full gloss, as these surfaces tend to be handled (and damaged) frequently, and need a hard-wearing, easy to clean finish.
MILK PAINT
Milk paint offers a lovely finish and is environmentally friendly. It gives an aged, mellow, vintage finish to furniture. It’s prepared by mixing milk paint powder with water, then straining through muslin for a smooth, balter-like consistency.
Prepare the piece by scraping off any old paint and sanding. Apply a limeproof undercoat sealer then the pre-prepared milk paint. Protect the finish with beeswax, lime wax or three to five coats of clear sealer.
TIP The natural pigment in milk paint can vary from batch to batch, so have enough for the whole job.
Generous natural light and a palette of cool whites give this already large space a striking sense of airy space.
MATERIAL EFFECTS
Timber Timber is an important element in a roomscape and plays a significant part in the colour palette. Often the timber of the floorboards is a warm colour, whether it’s a pale blonde Tasmanian oak, a honey coloured pine or a rich red jarrah. Warm whites complement them.
Steel and concrete
If the interior is dominated by steel and concrete, respect the industrial blue-grey tones of those materials by selecting a cool white tone for the walls.
KEEP IT CLEAN
Pale walls will show up more fingermarks, smears and smudges than coloured ones, so choose a product that’s easy to clean.
Flat and matt paints are porous, and dirty marks are almost impossible to remove. So choose low sheen or semi-gloss. Some manufacturers make paints with an additive related to Teflon, which they claim makes their products low-maintenance.
DAZZLING EXTERIORS
White reflects light and deflects heat. Painting the exterior of the house white can create the effect of a cooler interior, but it also creates glare. This can be counteracted with clever landscaping. Introducing mid-height to tall trees and shrubs will help to shade the building and disperse the dazzle.
Stand out on your street
Objects painted in dark colours often look smaller than they really are. Conversely those painted in bright white generally appear larger. So painting the exterior of a house white will give it a more prominent presence in the street.
White reflects heat so it’s a good choice in any hot climate. but watch out for problems of reflected glare inside.
Painting freshens up the house but it can leave a smell and health issues that linger. House paints are made from renewable, non-renewable and potentially harmful materials that can be bad for the planet and the household. The good news is there are greener options.
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Rooms that face south, south-east or south-west receive little or no sunshine during the day, making them dark and uninviting. You can lend some cheer to such a room by choosing from a palette of warm colours – yellow, red, orange and brown. Likewise, you can make sunny rooms seem cool with blues, greens, greys and lavenders. But beware of those cool colours if you live in a cold climate. Research shows that people feel colder in rooms with cool colours, If you are committed to off-white, choose either a warm or a cool tint of that neutral colour depending on its desired effect.
Colour library
Keep a record of paint colours, brand names, and places used, as well as a paint sample on wood paint stir sticks hung on a beaded chain. Now you can take your paint library to the shop with you to match colours or choose complementary or contrasting ones.
Moving the walls
Colour can also create optical illusions. For example, light colours reflect light and make the small room seem larger. Warm colours seem to advance and ‘fill’ space, whereas cool colours tend to recede. A white ceiling will seem higher; a dark ceiling will appear lower.
Complementary colours – in this case apple-green and violet – make for a striking decorative effect.
One room, four ways
Same room, same furniture, these four pictures show just how easy it is to create different styles simply by changing the colour.
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home painting sydney
he design brief (or client brief) is a set of parameters established in consultation with the client from which a design is created. This information is important to ensure we create a space that caters to our client’s needs as well as meeting the functional requirements of a bathroom area.
It is essential that our client’s ideas, requirements and preferences are paramount
When planning and designing a new bathroom, the options for the client are virtually limitless. The design is largely determined by client: lifestyle, personal taste and, of course, budget. The wide variety of materials, fitting and fixtures on the market can be overwhelming. Our clients will most likely require some guidance and professional advice during the selection process.
Planning a bathroom for a new home usually allows the designer greater flexibility: often there is the opportunity to have a say in the early stages of construction to specify the placement of services such as plumbing and drainage, and the location of windows and door openings to achieve the best layout for the space available. Where the project involves renovating an existing dwelling, the design may be limited by the footprint or space available and the existing plumbing and drainage (if these cannot be moved).
It is important to determine the project parameters (or ‘ scope of works’) required by the client from the outset before moving on to the more detailed design stage. These decisions will define what works are to be performed by us as the designer or bathroom specialist and unlimitedly determine the budget outcome for the client. The design-brief stage allows both parties to communicate one-on-one to have a clear understanding and agree on the expected outcomes before moving to the next stage.
There are important steps to take during the design brief and planning process to ensure our client’s needs and wants are captured, assessed and their level of importance determined before moving on to finalise project documentation.
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Our renovation services include but are not limited to:
Home painting
Residential painting sydney
We are fully insured and licensed
Whether you are looking for industrial or commercial painting, Beverly Homes has proven experience and knowledge providing the best solution for delivering large or small projects on time and on budget.
Our professional team of painters and site supervisors work closely with our clients to ensure efficiency, quality and customer satisfaction in each project.
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If you’re looking for a professional commercial painting company for your factory or warehouse painting, Beverly painting has proven experience in working with industrial buildings including.
production areas
Exterior painting services
Offices painting
Lunchrooms painting
Epoxy flooring
Line marking
Our professional commercial painters will work based on prepared proposal and site specific Safe Work Method Statements to make sure your painting project is completed safely, on time and on budget.
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Whether you are looking for commercial painting services for a small retail shop or an entire office building, Beverly Painting will complete your project safely, on time and on budget, with minimum disruption to your business.
We provide Safe Work Method Statements (SWMS) that will be site specific for each commercial painting project and toolbox talks prior to the commencement of each work shift.
Our estimators will provide a specified commercial painting schedule to assist with planning and budgeting for your project including an accurate price, methodology and work breakdown structure (WBS).
Our commercial painters and supervisors will follow our Quality Management System (QMS) including our Workplace Health and Safety Handbook to ensure safe and high quality painting services.
Our commercial painting projects speak for themselves. Customers are our best asset and we can provide testimonials on request.
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Whether your strata painting project is commercial, residential or a mixed strata scheme, from interiors to exteriors to epoxy floor coatings, Beverly Painting will help you to complete your project safely, on time and on budget, with minimum disruption to your tenants, residents and businesses.
Our estimators will provide a specified strata painting schedule to assist with planning and budgeting for your project including an accurate strata painting price, methodology and a work breakdown structure.
We provide Safe Work Method Statements (SWMS) that will be site specific for each strata painting project and toolbox talks prior to the commencement of each work shift.
Our strata painting supervisors and teams will follow our Quality Management System (QMS) including our Workplace Health and Safety Handbook to ensure safe and high quality painting services.
We determine the most cost effective and safest method to access your building and remain competitive by utilising our own EWP and scaffolding.
We listen to our customers. At
Beverly Painting, we have a policy of no-smoking, no loud music, and we only employ people with the appropriate language skills who act with courtesy, punctuality and cleanliness.
Our projects speak for themselves. Customers are our best asset and we can provide testimonials on request.
By this series of articles, Beverly Painting will take you through all DIY painting steps from preparation to paint a room including choosing the right paint. In this article we concentrate on paint preparation.
Preparing the paint
So, you have purchased your paint and you want to get stuck in to the residential painting or commercial painting job,
but there are a few things you need to do first to ensure a successful painting job.
BLENDING FOR COLOUR
If the job you are working on requires two or three 4 litre cans of paint, mix, or ‘box’, the paint from all the cans together to get a consistent colour. To do this, find a clean container and open all of the paint cans (Make sure you are using right device to remove the lids). Pour half of the paint from the first can into the extra container. Then pour some paint from the second and third cans into the first can. Move to the extra container and pour in some more paint from the second and third cans. Then pour the contents of all four containers back and forth several times. When the paint is mixed, return it to the original containers and seal the lids tightly. A much quicker alternative is to mix all the paint together in a single 20 litre container, if you can find a suitable one.
Mixing it up
Any electric drill mixing attachment is handy for water-based and oil-based paints. But don’t use the attachment to stir lacquer, epoxy paint, shellac, or any finish that includes ‘Do not shake can’ on its label. You won’t need to do battle with the bubbles that power-mixing stirs up. Instead, stir these paints and finishes by hand; they will stay fairly free of bubbles.
Newspaper collar
Here is another home-made way to minimise the mess created when stirring a full can of paint. Increase the height of the can by taping some folded sheets of newspaper around it. Any spills will fall onto the paper and not onto your workbench or floor.
Splatter shield
Stirring full cans of paint with a drill-driven mixer can splatter paint everywhere. One way to contain the mess is with a large coffee tin lid (one that comes with the 500 g or 1 kg tins). Drill a hole in the centre of the lid and slip it onto the mixer shaft before inserting the mixer into the drill. Hold the lid tightly over the paint can while you are mixing.
Milk carton mixer
Cut off the top of a clean 1 litre cardboard milk carton and use it as a container for mixing (or just holding) small amounts of paint or stain. The paint won’t stick to the wax coated interior, and the corner of the carton makes a good pouring spout.
Manual stirring
manual paint stirrer is more effective if it has several holes along its length. With each stroke the paint flows back and forth through the holes, allowing for faster, more thorough blending. You can buy a perforated metal stirrer or make your own wooden one. To make your own, find a long flat piece of scrap timber and use a drill to make a series of small holes. Rinse your stirrer thoroughly after use to prevent the holes from getting clogged with dried paint.
The holes in this stirrer allow paint to pass through easily which assists mixing and helps to prevent paint from spilling over the edge of the paint pot.
As always now it is the time for practical painting tips:
Top tips for peerless painting
Painting is an inexpensive way to make a big difference to the feel of your home, and to add value. To get you started, here are some essential painting tips to give you a flawless finish, every time.
PAINT TECHNIQUES
Whether your
strata painting project is commercial, residential or a mixed strata scheme, from interiors to exteriors to epoxy floor coatings, Beverly Painting will help you to complete your project safely, on time and on budget, with minimum disruption to your tenants, residents and businesses.
Our estimators will provide a specified strata painting schedule to assist with planning and budgeting for your project including an accurate strata painting price, methodology and a work breakdown structure.
We provide Safe Work Method Statements (SWMS) that will be site specific for each strata painting project and toolbox talks prior to the commencement of each work shift.
Our strata painting supervisors and teams will follow our Quality Management System (QMS) including our Workplace Health and Safety Handbook to ensure safe and high quality painting services.
We determine the most cost effective and safest method to access your building and remain competitive by utilising our own EWP and scaffolding.
We listen to our customers. At Beverly Painting, we have a policy of no-smoking, no loud music, and we only employ people with the appropriate language skills who act with courtesy, punctuality and cleanliness.
Our projects speak for themselves. Customers are our best asset and we can provide testimonials on request.
Beverly Painting will help you to complete your university or school painting project safely, on time and on budget, with minimum disruption to your staff, students and administrators schedules.
Our estimators will provide a specified painting schedule to assist with planning and budgeting for your project including an accurate painting price, methodology and a complete work breakdown structure.
We also offer weekends and night works as well school holidays, public holidays and Christmas periods.
We provide Safe Work Method Statements (SWMS) that will be site specific for each university or school painting project and toolbox talks prior to the commencement of each work shift.
Our university or school painting supervisors and teams will follow our Quality Management System (QMS) including our Workplace Health and Safety Handbook to ensure safe and high quality painting services.
We determine the most cost effective and safest method to access your building as well as stay competitive by utilising our own EWP and scaffolding.
To ensure the highest quality finish, we use only premium brands of paint and by using low-VOC products, your staff and students can enjoy a freshly painted environment without the odour of new paint.
We listen to our customers. At Beverly Painting, we have a policy of no-smoking, no loud music, and we only employ people with the appropriate language skills who act with courtesy, punctuality and cleanliness.
Our projects speak for themselves. Customers are our best asset and we can provide testimonials on request.
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By this series of articles, Beverly Painting will take you through all
DIY painting steps from preparation to paint a room including choosing the right paint. In this article we concentrate on paint preparation.
Preparing the paint
So, you have purchased your paint and you want to get stuck in to the residential painting or commercial painting job, but there are a few things you need to do first to ensure a successful painting job.
BLENDING FOR COLOUR
If the job you are working on requires two or three 4 litre cans of paint, mix, or ‘box’, the paint from all the cans together to get a consistent colour. To do this, find a clean container and open all of the paint cans (Make sure you are using right device to remove the lids). Pour half of the paint from the first can into the extra container. Then pour some paint from the second and third cans into the first can. Move to the extra container and pour in some more paint from the second and third cans. Then pour the contents of all four containers back and forth several times. When the paint is mixed, return it to the original containers and seal the lids tightly. A much quicker alternative is to mix all the paint together in a single 20 litre container, if you can find a suitable one.
Mixing it up
Any electric drill mixing attachment is handy for water-based and oil-based paints. But don’t use the attachment to stir lacquer, epoxy paint, shellac, or any finish that includes ‘Do not shake can’ on its label. You won’t need to do battle with the bubbles that power-mixing stirs up. Instead, stir these paints and finishes by hand; they will stay fairly free of bubbles.
Newspaper collar
Here is another home-made way to minimise the mess created when stirring a full can of paint. Increase the height of the can by taping some folded sheets of newspaper around it. Any spills will fall onto the paper and not onto your workbench or floor.
Splatter shield
Stirring full cans of paint with a drill-driven mixer can splatter paint everywhere. One way to contain the mess is with a large coffee tin lid (one that comes with the 500 g or 1 kg tins). Drill a hole in the centre of the lid and slip it onto the mixer shaft before inserting the mixer into the drill. Hold the lid tightly over the paint can while you are mixing.
Milk carton mixer
Cut off the top of a clean 1 litre cardboard milk carton and use it as a container for mixing (or just holding) small amounts of paint or stain. The paint won’t stick to the wax coated interior, and the corner of the carton makes a good pouring spout.
Manual stirring
manual paint stirrer is more effective if it has several holes along its length. With each stroke the paint flows back and forth through the holes, allowing for faster, more thorough blending. You can buy a perforated metal stirrer or make your own wooden one. To make your own, find a long flat piece of scrap timber and use a drill to make a series of small holes. Rinse your stirrer thoroughly after use to prevent the holes from getting clogged with dried paint.
The holes in this stirrer allow paint to pass through easily which assists mixing and helps to prevent paint from spilling over the edge of the paint pot.
As always now it is the time for practical painting tips:
Top tips for peerless painting
Painting is an inexpensive way to make a big difference to the feel of your home, and to add value. To get you started, here are some essential painting tips to give you a flawless finish, every time.
Whether you are looking for a
residential painting service for your entire house or even one room, Beverly Painting will meet and exceed your expectations for interior and exterior house painting.
We promise to finish your house painting on time and clean up after ourselves.
We respect that we will be working at your home and we have a policy of no-smoking, no loud music, and we only employ people with the appropriate language skills who act with courtesy, punctuality and cleanliness.
We provide a fixed quote for your house painting with no hidden costs or extra charges.
We prove our quality with a 3 year, no questions asked, warranty. We act on any concerns or problems quickly and courteously, with no hassle. We honour our warranty.
We are proud of our reputation. We also have warranty insurance to cover residential painting and commercial painting jobs. You can be confident that we are focussed on providing outstanding workmanship with superior quality every time.
In addition, we offer a 10 Year Gold Warranty which is part of a long term maintenance contract that we provide to retain the high standard of painting that has been established.
Our painting job isn’t done until we receive your complete approval and satisfaction and you will pay balance invoice when you are 100% satisfied from our house painting job.
Our projects speak for themselves. Customers are our best asset and we can provide testimonials on request.
In this article we concentrate on how to select and use a Paintbrush for your residential painting or commercial painting job.
Paintbrushes
Flick the bristles to keep dust, particles of dried paint and loose bristles out of your paint.
PAINTING WITH TACRYLIC
1. Start at the top of the wall. Apply the paint in all directions, working horizontally across the surface and moving down when one band is complete. Do not put the paint on too thickly.
2. Lay off the paint with light brush strokes and a fairly dry brush, working in a crisscross pattern. Lift the paint finally on upward strokes.
For any residential and commercial painting jobs, roller and paint pads are two useful tools for applying paint for large and small areas.
Paint pads
USING A PAINT PAD
3)Start painting near a comer. Move the pad in all directions with a gentle scrubbing action. Work in strips about four times the width of the pad.
4)Do not press too hard or paint may be forced off the pad in drips. With practice you should get no drips at all.
CUTTING-IN WITH AN EDGING PAD
cylinder that connects to the hose and wash until the water runs clean. When dry, recycle old potato chip cylinder containers to store the clean roller covers.
TIP If taking a short break, cover the roller in plastic wrap to keep the paint wet. Or scrape paint from the cover and rinse until the water runs clear.
PAINT WITH A ROLLER
The main causes of paint breaking down in the most residential and commercial painting jobs are incompatible paints being applied on top of one another, poor preparation of the surface, damp or trapped moisture, grease, rot or rust.
FLAKING
The paint has not been keyed to the surface, which may be too smooth (as with old gloss paint) or may be chalky (as with untreated kalsomine). Alternatively, rotting timber may be pushing the paint off or rust may have formed underneath
BLISTERING
Prick a blister – if water emerges, damp is trapped under the paint or is finding its way in from behind.
CRAZING
When a paint surface breaks up like mini crazy paving, incompatible paints have been used. The top layer of paint
breaks up because it expands at a different rate from the one underneath.
VISIBLE UNDER-COLOUR
Some strong colours are difficult to paint over effectively.
MOULD AND DISCOLOURATION
Spores settling on paintwork that is damp – possibly due to condensation forming on it-often lead to mould patches.
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Any professional painter will tell you that preparation is crucial to a good finish. It’s time-consuming and hard work stripping off old finishes – and even new, bare plaster needs priming – but your job will be far easier if you know what to do.
PAINTED OR WALLPAPERED SURFACES
Gloss painted
Acrylic painted
Vinyls, washables and wipe-clean papers
Any work where Beverly Painting did not supply the paint or other materials.
Any work which was not prepared carried out and completed by Beverly Painting.
Surfaces made of, or containing, galvanized metal.
Repairs to horizontal surfaces or any surface that, because its design allows moisture to collect. Include, but not limited to railings, decks, roofs , window sills and stairs.
Paint matching exactly, as the environmental situation will affect the colour and all existing and new paints finish over time. Neither can we guarantee that the finish coating will exactly match the finish paint samples which you selected.
Natural finished wood surfaces or Varnished.
Any repairs which are required as a result of a defect in the paint, Including but not limited to, chalking, fading, lapping and flashing regardless of whether the paint was supplied by the customer or Beverly Painting.
Bleeding caused by cedar, rust or knots.
Cracks in plaster, wood or drywall.
Mould, mildew or any other environmental conditions appearance.
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In your residential or commercial painting job, small cracks, dents, holes or gouges in plaster walls or ceilings can be repaired with interior filler. To search for cracks and gaps that need repairing, hold a torch to the wall and run it over the surface to highlight any flaws that aren’t obvious in natural light. Circle the problem areas with a pencil.
Corner cracks
These cracks tend to indicate movement between the adjoining walls, and require caulking, which is flexible even with a bit of wall movement, preventing the crack from reappearing.
1. Squeeze a narrow bead of flexible gap sealant directly over the crack, around 3 mm in diameter, but don’t overfill as it can make the square corner appear rounded.
2. Mould the gap sealant into the crack with a wet finger.
Nail pops
Fasteners driven too far through plasterboard paper during installation or gaps between the plasterboard and the wall stud can result in nail pops. Movement of the timber makes the Filler over the area pop out from the wall. 1. Add a screw near the first to hold the plasterboard firm. Tap on the pop with the handle of a broadknife to recess a hole,
2. then cover over both nail and screw heads with some wall filler.
External corners
Metal corner angles sometimes pop through the surface plaster. In other cases, vertical hairline cracks form slightly beyond the corner, usually because the angle wasn’t nailed securely or covered in tape.
1. Secure with extra 30 mm plasterboard nails through the loose edges of the corner angle to hold it flat to the wall.
2. Centre tape over the entire length of the angle and cover with two coats of joint compound.
Loose tape
Plasterboard joint tape tends to blister and peel when there isn’t enough joint compound under the tape to anchor it to the plasterboard.
1. Cut and peel the loose tape beyond the evident crack, and fill the hole with fast setting wall filler and leave to dry.
2. Embed a strip of paper tape into the joint compound to cover the patch, then overlay two wide applications of joint compound to blend the patch into the wall.
Damaged areas
If significant damage has been made to a large part of the wall, the damaged area should be skim-coated in a thin layer of joint compound. Begin by removing loose plasterboard poper then prime the remaining raw paper.
Use a brush to saturate the paper with paint and wipe any runs. When dry, lightly sand any raised nubs.
1. Trowel on the joint compound using overlapping vertical strokes.
2. Finish with overlapping horizontal strokes.
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In your residential or commercial painting job, small cracks, dents, holes or gouges in plaster walls or ceilings can be repaired with interior filler. To search for cracks and gaps that need repairing, hold a torch to the wall and run it over the surface to highlight any flaws that aren’t obvious in natural light. Circle the problem areas with a pencil.
Corner cracks
These cracks tend to indicate movement between the adjoining walls, and require caulking, which is flexible even with a bit of wall movement, preventing the crack from reappearing.
1. Squeeze a narrow bead of flexible gap sealant directly over the crack, around 3 mm in diameter, but don’t overfill as it can make the square corner appear rounded.
2. Mould the gap sealant into the crack with a wet finger.
Nail pops
Fasteners driven too far through plasterboard paper during installation or gaps between the plasterboard and the wall stud can result in nail pops. Movement of the timber makes the Filler over the area pop out from the wall. 1. Add a screw near the first to hold the plasterboard firm. Tap on the pop with the handle of a broadknife to recess a hole,
2. then cover over both nail and screw heads with some wall filler.
External corners
Metal corner angles sometimes pop through the surface plaster. In other cases, vertical hairline cracks form slightly beyond the corner, usually because the angle wasn’t nailed securely or covered in tape.
1. Secure with extra 30 mm plasterboard nails through the loose edges of the corner angle to hold it flat to the wall.
2. Centre tape over the entire length of the angle and cover with two coats of joint compound.
Loose tape
Plasterboard joint tape tends to blister and peel when there isn’t enough joint compound under the tape to anchor it to the plasterboard.
1. Cut and peel the loose tape beyond the evident crack, and fill the hole with fast setting wall filler and leave to dry.
2. Embed a strip of paper tape into the joint compound to cover the patch, then overlay two wide applications of joint compound to blend the patch into the wall.
Damaged areas
If significant damage has been made to a large part of the wall, the damaged area should be skim-coated in a thin layer of joint compound. Begin by removing loose plasterboard poper then prime the remaining raw paper.
Use a brush to saturate the paper with paint and wipe any runs. When dry, lightly sand any raised nubs.
1. Trowel on the joint compound using overlapping vertical strokes.
2. Finish with overlapping horizontal strokes.
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Whether you are looking for
commercial painting services for a small retail shop or an entire office building, Beverly Painting will complete your project safely, on time and on budget, with minimum disruption to your business.
We provide Safe Work Method Statements (SWMS) that will be site specific for each commercial painting project and toolbox talks prior to the commencement of each work shift.
Our estimators will provide a specified commercial painting schedule to assist with planning and budgeting for your project including an accurate price, methodology and work breakdown structure (WBS).
Our commercial painters and supervisors will follow our Quality Management System (QMS) including our Workplace Health and Safety Handbook to ensure safe and high quality painting services.
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3 Year no questions asked warranty.
10 year Gold warranty (as part of a long term maintenance contract).
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Highly experienced and professional teams.
On time and on budget, no hidden costs.
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Workplace safety culture.
Working at heights (EWP & rope access).
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